Extend Hair Color Photo Blog Post
15 December

Tips to extend the life of hair color

Q. Dr. Said, I would like your expert opinion and some tips on how to improve the lasting effect of hair color? Jessica, Alexandria, VA A. Jessica, here are some key steps that will enhance the longevity of hair color: Before applying color, make sure the hair is clean and free of metallic buildup. Metals are the worst enemy of hair color. Apply the color to the hair generously; making sure the hair is well covered and saturated. More often, coverage is poor because the …

Photo for Blog post about Translucent and Opaque
15 November

Translucent vs. Opaque hair color

Q. I am confused about the terms, opaque and translucent. In the color classes I attended, educators used those terms in describing their line of color. I thought if the color was light it was translucent and as the colors get darker they become more opaque. The educators say “no,” their darker colors are translucent as well. Is that a good thing? Sandra, San Francisco, CA A. The words translucent and opaque came into existence as descriptive terms with the introduction of demi-permanent hair colorants, …

Blog Photo that goes with when to use heat with color post
15 October

Processing hair color with or without heat

Q. Dr. Said, I have another question for you. Most manufacturers recommend to process hair color at room temperature. But there are others who teach to process under heat. What is your opinion on this? Does heat give better color? Donna, Sweeny, TX A. Donna, it is always recommended to follow the manufacturer’s instructions because each color line is designed to work under a specific set of conditions. Heat no doubt speeds up color development and dye diffusion into the hair and you may be …

Added Photo to go with Oxidizers explained post
15 September

Effect of oxidizers on hair dyes and hair melanin

Q. Dr. Said, I was wondering if you could give me a description of how oxidation opens the cuticle, disperses the melanin and binds the intermediates. As I have heard it has to do with the covalent bonds of the Oxygen and Hydrogen and the heat produced by the exchange of atoms. I have never had a chemist explain the process to me and I am very interested in knowing the specifics. Also, how are eumelanin and pheomelanin different from each other and is melanin ever gone completely …

Hair Color photo to go with keep lasting color blog post
15 August

The myth of organic natural hair color

Q. Dr. Said I have been hearing a lot about natural and organic as well as PPD-free hair color. Is there such a thing as organic or natural hair color? And if so, could you recommend any of those? Lea, Indian Wells, CA. A. First I cannot recommend a product because THERE ISN’T ANY. Unfortunately, some small manufacture’s try to play the fear factor in their advertisements to achieve a quick sale. Be aware of those. The only dye that you can find in hair …

Blog Post Picture to go with Metal Bowl Question
15 July

Metallic bowls, foils, and hair bleach

Q.  The instructions in the bleach I use indicate I should not mix bleach in a metallic container, I am assuming this means all types of metal bowls.  If that is the case why is it acceptable to place the bleach and hair between two pieces of foil (metal)? Andre, San Pedro, CA. A. The cautionary note against mixing bleach in metallic bowls dates back to the time when bowls were made mostly of copper or iron. Copper and iron were quite common and inexpensive …

Blog Post Photo for questions about dying blonde hair
15 June

Melanin pigments in blond hair

Q. I need to be enlightened on the subject of true blonde hair containing what type of melanin. In the past, I have learned that true blonde hair is composed of dispersed yellow pigments in low concentration.  I have also learned that pheomelanins, which include the yellow and red pigments, do not bleach out while eumelanins (brown pigments) bleach easily. Therefore, how can true blonde hair be bleached out to the palest yellow stage, if it has yellow pigments? Thank you. Barbara, Pasadena, CA. A. All human hair types …

Blog Post Picture showing confusion for why perms don't work the same way on some people
15 May

Is there one perm for all hair types?

Q. I recently gave a perm to a client with bleached ends on her hair. The perm I used said it was good for ALL types of hair. It should have said, “Bad for all types of hair”. The virgin hair came out straight and the bleached hair was frizzy. Is there a perm that is good for all hair types? Why do manufacturers make such claims if they are not true? Cindy, Denver, CO. A. Cindy, I am going to answer your second question …

For a blog post talking about how all hair is not the same when it comes to rinsing.
15 April

Ideal temperature for rinsing chemically-treated hair

Q. Permit me to ask your professional opinion about a situation I have encountered while attending a class on Double Process Blonding.  As I have always rinsed the hair with cool water, I was surprised to learn from this instructor that the opinion had changed and that the water recommendation was now “as warm as the client can tolerate.”  The theory being warm water was more effective in releasing “Quats” from the hair. I have a double process blonde client that I have had for …

Photo for Blog Post about Tube Color vs Bottle
15 March

Tube hair color vs. Hair color in a bottle

Q. Dr. Said, I hear so many different opinions about color in a tube and color in a bottle. Some say tube color is better because it has calibrated ammonia (whatever that means). Others say color in a bottle gives you better coverage. Please explain to me the difference between the two products and which one is less damaging to the hair. Ryan, Chesterfield, MO. A. There is absolutely no difference between the two products in terms of the kinds of dyestuff they use. The difference …